For first-time visitors to the UK, almost everyone will include London in their itineraries. Understandably so, because it is a key city and a main international hub. Those with limited time would probably stick to exploring it and the nearby places in England and call it a day. While I do agree that London is a worthwhile destination, it is not everything that this country has to offer.

I, along with two of my reliable travel buddies, Lex and Arnold, suddenly decided to visit the UK. We only had six days, as that was all we could fit in our schedules (ended up staying longer, but more on that later), so we had to pick the places we wanted to visit carefully. This may sound like we were biting off more than we could chew, but we ultimately decided to split our time equally between Scotland and England. Our first stop was Edinburgh, and we also ventured out to the Scottish Highlands for a day trip.

With that being said, can I tell you a secret?

I had zero expectations about Edinburgh.

Previously, there were only two things I knew about it: 1) it is the capital of Scotland, and 2) Queen Elizabeth II’s spouse, Prince Philip, was the Duke of Edinburgh.

Heck, I didn’t even know how to pronounce the name properly (it’s Edin-BRUH) until I started planning for our trip! I thought it was going to be one of those European capital cities that would make my feet ache from walking on cobblestones all day (I wasn’t wrong about this, though lol), I wouldn’t like the food as a picky eater, and I’d find it boring in general. But after hours of research, I found out it is a charming city rich in history, beautiful medieval architecture, and amazing people. Most of all, this city inspired JK Rowling to write Harry Potter!

So I just knew we had to visit and experience the city’s magic ourselves.

We didn’t even realize we were going to be there during St. Patrick’s Day, so that was a bonus! It’s not a holiday in Scotland, but there are many Irish immigrants living in Edinburgh who do celebrate.

I created this travel guide based on our experiences and some of my research. We spent less than 2 days exploring the city, and I honestly think that was more than enough because everything you’d want to see is within walking distance of each other. It’s perfect for a quick weekend getaway if you live in the UK.

Warning: You will do A LOT of walking and climbing inclines and stairs, so wear sturdy shoes. You’ll definitely get your cardio workout covered!

Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, one of the constituent countries of the United Kingdom, which occupies the northern part of the island of Great Britain. The city is located in the southeast area of the country. It has a large coastal area, attributed to the fact that it’s situated in the southern part of an estuary called the Firth of Forth.

Some Things to Know

Languages: English, Scots, Gaelic, British Sign Language (BSL)

Currency: Sterling pound (£)

Measurement System: Mix of metric (official) & imperial (e.g. mile, pint, inches)

Drives on: The left side of the road. The driver’s seat is on the right.

Plug: Type G (three rectangular pins arranged in a triangular pattern)

Electric voltage: 230V

Operating hours: Most shops are open from 9 to 6 pm, museums from 10 to 5 pm. Always check before you go.

Safety: Relatively safe, low crime rate. Remain vigilant and maintain basic safety precautions.

Tipping: Not expected/mandatory. 10-15% is customary if you really want to leave a tip, and some restaurants have a service fee included in the bill.

Interesting Fact: Scotland’s national animal is the unicorn.

Entry Requirements

Depending on your nationality, you may need a visa to enter the UK. You can check if you do need one here. As a Filipino national with a US green card, I still had to apply for a standard visitor visa. It cost me £127 ($152) for a 6-month multiple-entry visa.

Certain countries with visa-free access, such as the US, Canada, Australia, or European countries, would need an electronic travel authorization (ETA) instead. It is £16 and is valid for 6 months.

When to Visit

We visited in mid-March, and we were so lucky we had sunny days! We also got to see the early spring bloom, so I personally recommend going during this time.

Gloom and rain are the norm here, so don’t be surprised if that’s what welcomes you no matter when you go.

Summer (June-August) is easily the best time for longer days and better chances of having warmer weather. But that also means many festivals dot the city’s calendar during this time, resulting in more tourists and more expensive flights and accommodations.

Spring (March-May) & Autumn (September-November) are off-shoulder seasons. The weather is colder (though probably still not as bad as winter), but there are fewer tourists and everything is cheaper. And like I mentioned earlier, you can witness the spring bloom or autumn foliage which makes it more colorful!

Winter (December-February) has the best tourist deals! The city experiences its coldest and shortest days during this season, and the possibility of getting rain, snow and/or wind. If that doesn’t bother you one bit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy Edinburgh’s charm that you can only see during winter.

What to Pack

Clothes: (season-dependent) you can’t go wrong with having a light jacket/windbreaker and sweaters in your suitcase, even during summer. If you visit during the colder months, layer up! Wearing thermals, a thick coat, scarf, gloves, a beanie or earmuffs can make navigating the city much more enjoyable.

Comfortable and sturdy boots or shoes
Umbrella
Adapter plug
Camera
Powerbank
Cash (most shops and restaurants take credit cards, but it won’t hurt to bring some just in case)
Your stamina 😂

How to Get There

We flew from Los Angeles to Edinburgh via British Airways, with a 1.5 hr layover in London Heathrow.

By Air: Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is the main port of entry. Though some cities in the US and Europe have direct flights to Edinburgh, most international travelers will likely have to transit in London to get to anywhere else in the UK. Flying is still going to be the fastest way. Several airlines like British Airways and low-cost carriers RyanAir and easyJet operate routes to Edinburgh.

However, airport layovers can be stressful and hectic, especially in Heathrow. If you miss your connecting flight or would rather have a more relaxed experience, below are 3 alternatives to get to Edinburgh from London or any other cities in Britain.

By Bus: Although it takes so much longer from London (averaging 10 hours), several bus companies such as National Express, FlixBus and MegaBus have services to Edinburgh. Buses typically leave from London’s Victoria Station and arrive at Edinburgh Bus Station.

By Train: You can catch an LNER or Lumo train at King’s Cross Station. It’s scenic, faster than driving or taking the bus, and super convenient. The journey takes around 4.5 hours and you disembark right in the heart of Old Town, just a short walk from the Royal Mile, at Edinburgh Waverley Station.

By Car: If you prefer to rent a car and drive, it takes around 7 hours from London. This is a good option if you love road trips and want to have more freedom and flexibility, but just a heads up, finding parking can be a pain in Edinburgh.

Airport to the City Center and vv.

The city center is around 8.5 miles from Edinburgh Airport. There are a couple of ways to get there.

By Bus: The Airlink (service 100) express bus runs 24 hours between the airport and the city center, taking about 25 minutes to get to Waverly Bridge. Service is direct and frequent (10-20 mins between buses), so you don’t have to worry about missing it. For more information, check out the Lothian bus website.

By Tram: There’s also a tram connecting the airport and Newhaven, with a stop at the city center (Princes St. or St. Andrew Square). It’s located just outside the main terminal next to the plaza and the big “Edinburgh” sign. Service is also frequent, but it takes a little longer than the bus because there are a couple of stops in between.

You can pre-purchase your tickets online or buy them at the ticket vending machines at the tram stops.

By Taxi/Uber: If you have a lot of luggage, then you might want to consider getting a taxi or Uber.

By Private Transfer: Easiest way.

Getting Around

By foot: this is the primary way to explore the city. As if I don’t mention this enough, you will do so much walking here.

By bus or tram: Edinburgh has a good network of buses and trams. You can find out more information on their official website. There’s also a Bus & Tram app you can download, where you can see the timetables and buy tickets. I believe there’s also a hop-on-hop-off bus available.

(I don’t have experience with using public transport because we stayed in the center of all the action on the Royal Mile, so we just walked the entire time.)

By car/taxi/Uber: if you’re too lazy to walk, navigate, or learn how to use public transport, you can always hail a taxi or book an Uber. But like in any city, this option is pricy. If you have your own car, it can be tricky to find parking (not worth the hassle imo).

By bicycle: Edinburgh is a cycle-friendly city, so you can try renting a bicycle to get around!

Where to Stay

The main areas where tourists stay are Old Town (particularly within the vicinity of Grassmarket or Royal Mile) & New Town.

If you’re a first-time visitor like us, it’s better to stay at a central location. Notably, Old Town would be the best choice overall because that’s where the top sights of Edinburgh are. But being close to the action means streets are noisy and busy, hotels may be a bit more on the expensive side, and rooms can be small. And during high season, road closures happen often.

If you want to have great options for quieter, more luxurious accommodations, but still within walking distance from the attractions, then New Town would be a better fit for you. This area features buildings with Georgian architecture, shopping centers, and museums.

Other areas where you may want to consider staying in are Leith (trendy port neighborhood with three Michelin-starred restaurants), Stockbridge (a quiet, local neighborhood north of the city center), and West End.

We stayed at the Hilton Carlton Edinburgh(£££), and we had a terrific time!

The location was perfect. It’s just a 5-minute walk from Edinburgh Waverley Station, and a stone’s throw away from the Royal Mile, and there are many shops, restaurants, and cafes around it. Plus, it was very convenient that we could easily go back to our hotel and rest whenever we got tired from exploring. We booked a Deluxe Room with two double beds, and the room was a reasonable size for 3 people.

However, it’s not without any cons. When we visited in March, there was ongoing roadwork on the street in front of the hotel, which could get noisy. When we first arrived, our Uber dropped us off at the corner of High St. and North Bridge. We had to walk a few meters to get to the hotel. It wasn’t a big deal since we only had carry-ons, but if we had bigger bags, we might have had a hard time dragging them. For those bringing a car, the hotel doesn’t have a parking facility on-site. But they are contracted with the Waverley Station Car Park (a 10-minute walk), and hotel guests are entitled to 20% off the parking rate.

What to See

Edinburgh is a very picturesque and compact city, so you’ll be able to visit all its top sites in 2 days. Below is a list of the places we visited, as well as some that we didn’t get the chance to, but were originally on our plans.

The Royal Mile and its historic lanes (Cost: Free)

The Royal Mile is the historic center and heart of Old Town. Here, you'll find numerous shops and restaurants. It is aptly named because it runs between two royal buildings: Edinburgh Castle and Holyroodhouse Castle. And yes, it is a bit more than a mile long. As you stroll along the main street, you'll discover charming alleys known locally as ‘closes’ or ‘wynds’ branching off from it. You can easily spend an hour or two just wandering and getting lost in these lanes that are filled with so much history and character.

National Museum of Scotland (Cost: Free)

Just a few blocks from the Royal Mile is the National Museum of Scotland. It may seem unassuming on the outside, but inside is a beautiful museum with an aesthetic modern architecture. It houses a grand collection of art pieces and artifacts, as well as galleries and exhibits showcasing the rich history and culture of Scotland.

We came an hour before closing, and while we rushed across the exhibits, it is a small museum, so less than 2 hours should be enough time to spend here.

St. Giles’ Cathedral (Cost: Free to enter, but there’s an option to donate)
Smack dab in the middle of the Royal Mile, you’ll find an impressive Gothic building featuring a statue of Adam Smith (the father of modern economics) on one side and a statue of Walter Montagu Douglas Scott (the 5th Duke of Buccleuch) on the Parliament Square side. St. Giles’ Cathedral stands as one of Scotland’s most significant churches and played a key role in the Scottish Reformation, a 16th-century political and religious movement that transitioned Scotland from Catholicism to Protestantism.

Victoria Street (Cost: Free)

Ah, the colorful and iconic Victoria Street. They say this was the inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books, and I could see why! Additionally, the Elephant House Cafe’s new location — the birthplace of Harry Potter, aka one of the places where JK Rowling started writing the beloved series — can also be found here. The original location was shut down due to a fire in 2021. Many unique & quirky shops on this street are also worth checking out!

New College, The University of Edinburgh (Cost: Free)
We went here twice. The first time we went, the gates were closed. They’re open only on weekdays from 9 am to 5 pm. When they are open, you’re free to enter and marvel at the beautiful neo-Gothic architecture of the School of Divinity building and the courtyard that would instantly make you feel like you’re a student in Hogwarts! It does trigger a bit of OCD in me because the Tolbooth Kirk spire in the background does not line up perfectly with the stairs. 😂

Ramsay Garden/Lane (Cost: Free)

A few steps from New College is what’s considered Edinburgh’s steepest street, Ramsay Lane. It’s exhausting walking uphill, but you will be rewarded with a postcard-worthy view of a block of apartments known as Ramsay Garden. It also offers a panoramic view of New Town.

Princes Street Gardens & Ross Fountain (Cost: Free)

Directly below Edinburgh Castle is the Princes Street Gardens, a public park that links the Old Town and New Town. Coming from the side of the Scottish National Gallery, we found the cute Gardeners’ Cottage by the west entrance. The park’s mostly flat, so we had a nice stroll. We concluded it by admiring the cast-iron work of the Ross Fountain, with an amazing view of Edinburgh Castle right behind it.

Tolbooth Kirk and Castlehill (Cost: Free)

If you continue walking up Ramsay Lane, you will end up on Castlehill, the thoroughfare that leads to the entrance of Edinburgh Castle. One of the buildings that will immediately catch your eye is Tolbooth Kirk, also known now as ‘The Hub.’ You cannot miss it, as it is the highest point in central Edinburgh and is characterized by a Gothic spire with a clock and remarkable red vents. Historically, it was a General Assembly Hall, but nowadays, it serves as a ticketing office and hosts various events.

Edinburgh Castle (Cost: £21.5 / £24 adults; timed-entry)

Sitting on Castle Rock and towering over Old Town is probably the most prominent attraction of not just Edinburgh, but possibly of all Scotland: Edinburgh Castle. Although Scottish royalty have resided in the castle, due to its advantageous location, it was primarily used as a military stronghold and prison. That’s why you will not see a throne room or any hint of lavishness in its interiors. However, the oldest Crown jewels of Britain, the Honours of Scotland, are on display here.

Vennel View (Cost: Free)

At the Grassmarket area, you might stumble upon one of the most gorgeous viewpoints in the city, the Vennel view. It offers a dramatic picture of the stairs and beautiful buildings with Edinburgh Castle in the background. It’s a pretty famous photo spot, so it can get busy. I recommend visiting during sunrise or a little after sunset.

Places on our list we didn’t get the chance to visit:

Holyroodhouse Palace (Cost: £21 / £25 adults)
At the opposite end of the Royal Mile stands Holyroodhouse Palace, the official royal residence. Numerous Scottish monarchs had used it. At present, the palace is King Charles’ home whenever he is carrying out official duties and handling state affairs in Scotland. It’s about a 20-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle.
The Writers’ Museum (Cost: Free)
Located very close to the Royal Mile, this is a small museum dedicated to three of the most notable Scottish literary figures, Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Sir Walter Scott.
Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery (Cost: Free)
I know you might be thinking, “Who would want to visit a graveyard for fun?” But Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery is interesting because a lot of well-known Scottish figures, like James Craig, Allan Ramsay, and even a dog named Greyfriars Bobby, are laid to rest here. It also came to bigger prominence due to some of the names on the gravestones being very similar to Harry Potter characters’ names, such as Thomas Riddell, Sirius Black, Robert Potter, and William McGonagall.
Scott Monument (Cost: £9 adults)
Standing in the heart of Edinburgh is one of its important landmarks, the Scott Monument. It was built to honor one of the country’s most legendary writers, Sir Walter Scott. You can admire it from afar, but if you decide to enter, you will need a ticket. Tickets are bought in person, card only.

Circus Lane (Cost: Free)
Circus Lane is a charming cobblestoned street in New Town that’s arguably one of the most photogenic spots in Edinburgh. It’s perfect for a short walk and to take new photos for your Instagram feed.
Arthur’s Seat (Cost: Free)
If you’re into nature and hiking, you may want to check out Arthur’s Seat. Comprising most of Holyrood Park, it’s a remnant of an extinct volcano. Though the exact origin of its name is unknown, some believe that Arthur’s Seat is named as such because it has a connection with King Arthur. There are even some theories that it was the location of Camelot. There is no evidence for this, though. It takes over an hour to walk from Holyroodhouse Palace to the peak, but you will be rewarded with stunning views of the city.
Dean Village (Cost: Free)
The first time I saw photos of Dean Village online, I was immediately captivated. Once a milling village, it’s now one of the most visited areas in Edinburgh because of the picturesque buildings that will remind you of those quaint European fairytale villages. Don’t miss it like we did! It sits on the Water of Leith, adding to the tranquility and charm of the village.
Calton Hill (Cost: Free)
Here’s another one for the hikers! This is another great hiking spot in the middle of the city. Similar to Arthur’s Seat, it is also an extinct volcano that offers impressive views of Edinburgh. But more than the beautiful landscape, it is an important piece in Scotland’s rich culture and history, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s the location of many Scottish monuments and memorials, such as the National Monument (the “Parthenon” of Scotland), Dugald Stewart Monument, Scottish Government Headquarters, and Nelson Monument.
Royal Botanic Garden (Cost: Free)
If you just want to have a peaceful and relaxing time connecting with nature, you may consider a visit to the Royal Botanic Garden. Situated a mile from the city center, it was historically a physic garden that was used to cultivate medicinal herbs and plants. Spanning over an impressive 72 acres, it is one of Europe’s oldest botanic gardens and is currently home to one of the world’s greatest plant collections.
Scottish National Gallery (Cost: Free)
With its strategic location on The Mound, right across from the Princes Street Gardens and close to the train station, this museum is pretty hard to miss. The striking architecture will immediately catch your attention. The gallery boasts a grand collection of both Scottish and international art from renowned artists that are worth checking out and immersing in.

View of the Scottish National Gallery from Ramsay Lane

Here’s a little map I created where I pinned the spots I mentioned above. I’m sure I’ve missed a lot of gems, but hopefully I was able to cover the basics. :)

What to Do

Do a Walking Tour
That’s the main way to explore Edinburgh anyway! You can do it on your own, but if you want more structure and information, a lot of companies offer free guided walking tours that delve into the history of the city. Some even specialize in Harry Potter and ghost tours!

Scotch Whiskey Tasting

Who goes to Scotland without having a taste of Scotch whiskey? Just kidding. But if you like drinking alcohol, this one should certainly be on your to-do list. There are plenty of places in Edinburgh where you can do a whiskey tasting, like the Johnnie Walker experience on Princes Street. Another famous one located on Castlehill is The Scotch Whisky Experience. While we did consider booking one of their tours, we were a little pressed for time. We ended up doing a whiskey flight at a cute Scottish pub, Devil’s Advocate, where we had our lunch as well.

Pub crawl

I have to give it to Edinburgh, it has tons of awesome bars and pubs, particularly in the Cowgate and Grassmarket areas. Though sometimes overlooked for the bustling nightlife of neighboring Glasgow, Edinburgh’s nightlife is not to be underestimated. From traditional Scottish pubs, Irish pubs, and bars with live music, you’re bound to find anything you’re looking for, and you’re guaranteed to have a night out you’ll never forget.

Since we visited the city during St. Patrick’s Day, we had a great experience pub crawling and bar hopping! The streets were packed with people! We considered joining a pub crawling tour, but opted to do it ourselves in the end. The places we went to were Bar Salsa, Stramash, Captain’s Bar, O’Neills, and Cabaret Voltaire.

I hadn’t had that much fun on a night out in a long time, and I even sang at Captain’s Bar (Scottish pub with live folk music) after being bribed with free alcohol by my friends lol.

Watch the bagpipers

You may hear the distinct sound of bagpipes while walking along the Royal Mile. The bagpipers, often wearing their traditional Scottish clothes and kilt, offer free performances that add to the allure of Edinburgh. Your trip to Scotland won’t be complete without hearing one.

Embark on a Day Trip

If you have more than 2 days in Scotland (and honestly, even if you don’t), there are various remarkable places you can visit on a day trip from Edinburgh. Some of these include Loch Ness (3 hr 25 mins drive per way), Stirling Castle (1 hr), Glasgow (1 hr), Glencoe & Scottish Highlands (3 hr 30 mins), Falkirk Kelpies (50 mins), St. Andrews (1 hr 20 mins), and Hadrian’s Wall (2 hr 25 mins). If you can do an overnight tour, you can also consider visiting the Isle of Skye (5 hrs).

Where and What to Eat

Below is the list of places we ate at in Edinburgh, along with the food we tried. All of these are close to the Royal Mile.

Makars (Scottish comfort food)
Makars was where we had our first meal. We heard that there’s normally a long wait, so reservations are recommended. However, we were very fortunate that we just walked in and were immediately seated! Then again, we visited right before dinner rush. They specialize in mashed potatoes, offering a wide selection of flavors. The restaurant itself had a very cozy ambiance, and the service was friendly.
What we tried: Slow-cooked lamb shank, Bonnie Prince Charlie Spatchcock chicken, Scottish eggs

Mor Bakehouse (desserts, pasties, pies, sandwiches)

We randomly came across Mor Bakehouse on our way back to our hotel. They’re both a deli and a bakery, selling many different grab-and-go foods like Cornish pasties, muffins, pies, and sandwiches. They also have coffee, which makes it a perfect stop for breakfast.

What I tried: Guinness cake

Brew Dog (craft beer, casual food)

We suddenly got hungry in the middle of our pub crawl, so we decided to eat at the first restaurant we saw that was still open. I’m glad that we stumbled upon Brew Dog, as they have a wide selection of food that’s honestly fitting for a night out, like burgers, pizzas, wings, and fries. They have multiple locations in the UK, not just in Edinburgh. They are experts in craft beer, and they even have a beer flight on their menu (though we didn’t try it out).

What I tried: buttermilk chicken wings

£2 Pizza Slice (pizza)
On our way back to the hotel from the pub crawl, we got hungry again and suddenly saw that this pizza place on South Bridge was still open! I didn’t expect much since a slice was pretty cheap (£2 to £3), but I ended up liking it. It was also a plus that they offer thin-crusted pizza. They don’t have a lot of chairs, so expect to do takeout.
What I tried: Meat Lovers pizza

The Milkman (specialty coffee)

This is a local favorite that features artisan coffee and delectable pastries. We stopped by first thing in the chilly morning before we started exploring Edinburgh. I’m not a big fan of hot coffee (they do have iced coffee, though), but man, their cappuccino just hit the spot.

What I tried: cappuccino

Copper Still (Scottish food)
A lot of restaurants open a little late in the day, so we were glad we found Copper Still to grab breakfast! Trying out their hearty Scottish breakfast was an experience in itself.
What we tried: full Scottish breakfast (includes bacon, egg, haggis, black pudding, potato scone, tomato, pork sausage, mushrooms, baked beans, sourdough toast & butter), eggs Benedict

Knoops (hot chocolate)
We just stumbled upon this shop while we were walking along the vibrant Victoria Street. I loved their hot chocolate so much that we had to go here twice! I even bought some of their hot chocolate to bring back home with me.
What we tried: salted caramel hot chocolate

Devil’s Advocate (Scottish food)
We concluded our Edinburgh trip with a delicious Scottish lunch at Devil’s Advocate. We also did our whiskey tasting here. Their selection of Scotch whiskies was phenomenal. The restaurant is tucked away in a narrow alley called Advocate’s Close. You need to climb down a couple of stairs to find it. The interiors are very rustic and homey, and the food was great. Please note that they change their menu every three months.
What we tried: Scottish Road Trip & All About the Finish whiskey flights, truffle parmesan chips, chicken breast, pork fillet

Souvenirs

The Royal Mile is lined with plenty of souvenir shops. We visited a couple while we were there, and frankly, most offer pretty much the same stuff, and there wasn’t any significant difference in the prices.

Aside from the usual postcards, t-shirts, fridge magnets, and keychains, here are some unique and interesting souvenirs I saw that you might want to bring home from Scotland:

Kilts
Bagpipes
Scottish shortbread (I tried Walkers…they were delicious! To add, I recently found out Trader Joe’s in the US sells them!)
Cashmere, wool tartan and tweed products (blankets, scarves, gloves, skirts, bags)
Stuffed toys (get the Hairy Coos!)
Scotch whiskey and gin (I personally bought a bottle of Craigellachie 13 and Edinburgh Gin)
Scottish jewelry

Edinburgh was a city that pleasantly surprised me. I don’t know if it’s because it was the first place we visited in the UK, but it left a deep impression on me (and frankly, I loved it more than London). And so far, it’s one of my favorite cities I've visited in Europe. I hope you fall in love with it the same way I did!

Whether you’re a fan of history and architecture, love exploring new cities, enjoy nightlife, or even prefer just being in nature, it offers a little bit of something for everyone. I hope this guide helps you in planning your trip to this majestic Scottish capital, or if you’ve been there, please let me know other things you can recommend when I visit again.

A 48-Hour First-timer’s Guide to Edinburgh

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